Instrument Panel - Part II (initial mounting of components)

Yesterday (Fri, Feb 4) I picked up my panel / avionics from Advanced in Canby, OR.  Nice 1100KM round trip single day...

The folks at Advanced were excellent.  Dove into any question, and if someone didn't have an answer they went and found who did.  

We went through every item line by line, then boxed it all.  There is so little metal left in the panel that it is very floppy, and will be until it is mounted into the carbon fibre shell.

Next task is cutting the carbon shell.  I am not looking forward to this...

Plan is to drill all the mounting holes first, then with everything clecoed in place mark the edges of what needs to be cut.  Then mark out a real cut line, drill the corners, and then go at the straight pieces with a Dremel with a diamond bit.

After first batch of cuts...  Carbon fibre is way itchier then fiberglass.

When I started drilling for fasteners, the clear on top of the carbon started to lift in some areas.  Some parts of the panel are fine, some its just flaking off in chunks.  

I put a support request in with the factory, and had a phone call that same day.  Prep (or lack thereof) is the most likely culprit.  Once I finish all the cutting / drilling / fasteners Glasair is going to re-clear it.  I just have to get it to them.  Very impressed with the support.

I took a break from the panel for a bit and started chewing on where am I going to put the ACM.  My original plan was a stand alone shelf on the pilots side, forward of the pilot and panel crossbar.  However, there was a post on the forum where another builder fabricated a large-ish shelf.  I think I am going to explore this option and see how it works out.

The nice thing about the shelf concept is I will have LOTS of room for all the boxes... of which there are many.

Below is a very crude drawing of all the avionics placement looking from the top down.  For the left and right side trays, components are mounted both on the top and bottom.

Note:  The gap between the header and panel / ACM and ADAHRS's is for future IFR expansion.  This is where the Garmin 255 and Avidyne 410 will go (eventually...)

Boxes to mount forward of the panel.  This is a working list and will probably change slightly.  But bottom line I need real estate, and the shelf gets me there quite quickly.  If the shelf works out, I plan on migrating the ECU and boost controller to the shelf.  The capacitor is moving to the firewall.

Item	Description	Quantity	Proposed location	Dimensions
AF5000 backup battery			Left shelf - under
ADAHRS-200	Primary ADAHRS	1	Center shelf - right	4.71" x 2.61" x 1.22"
ADAHRS-200	Backup ADAHRS	1	Center shelf - right	4.71" x 2.61" x 1.22"
EMS-221 Canbus Engine Module	Advanced Canbus Module - to talk to UL ECU	1	Center shelf - right	6.35" X 2.99" x 1.09"
ADSB-472	Skyview ADSB 472 Dual band	1	Right shelf - top	4" x 2.79" x 0.97"
GPS-2020	ADS-B 2020 GPS Receiver Module	1	Left shelf - top
PDA360XR	Remote Audio Panel	1	Right shelf - under	7.64" x 5.82" x 1.34"
ACM	Advanced Control Module	1	Center shelf - right	9.94" x 6.85" x 0.88"
Shunt	60A Ammeter shunt	1	Right shelf - top	5.9" x 1.96" x 1.18"
UL ECU	UL Power Engine Control Unit	1	Center shelf - right	5.2" x 4.25" x ?
UL Boost Controller	UL Power Boost Controller	1	Center shelf - right	1.53" x 2.56" x ?
Cockpit Ground Block	Ground block inside the avionics section	1	Left shelf - top	6.4375" x .9375" x 1.03"
TCW Backup Battery	6AH battery backup for Avionics (not engine)		Left shelf - under	7.7" x 2.29" x 2.75"

I think the shelf concept is going to work... I widened the cutout for the header tank to starboard so it can be removed and installed with the shelf and all the avionics in place.

I have everything temporary mounted EXCEPT the ECU and boost controller (because I don't have them yet).

Finished cutting the carbon out of the panel.  Working on Nutplates.... lots and lots and lots of Nutplates.

There are 4 problem locations.  There are vertical tabs on the back of the panel that sit on the crossbar.  3 of the holes needed for mounting the aluminum inserts are interfering and will require some creative solutions.

Also, in my crazy desire for fancy lit switches (and lots of switches) there is no room to mount the Nutplates for the two switch mounting plates.  So again, going to have to get creative.  

So after lots of noodling, I came up with a plan to make a small thick (0.1") aluminum plate the nestles into the corners.  The Nutplates are attached it the plate, and then the plates are riveted / bonded in place.  This will keep all the rivets hidden.

The switch panels fit exactly like they should... 

I lost track how many Nutplates are in the panel, but it has to be over 30.  Each nut plate requires 6 drilling / countersinking operations, plus clecoing and riveting.  I found the idea of a template from Glasair (it was in one of their TWTT manuals).

I have a bunch of these for different sizes of nutplate.  They are made of steel (whatever you have lying around).  Eventually they wear out, then you throw it away and make another one.  I found a few scraps of hardened steel and I use that for the ones that most often used (#8 and #10 standard 2 leg nut plates).

Next is mounting the angles for the future GNC255 NAV/COM and the Avidyne 410 navigator.  After consulting with our local avionics 'expert', the gap between the angles needs to be 6.35".  I have already cut and bent the angles... now I have to figure out how to mount them EXACTLY parallel to each other.  2 issues... the cover plate that hides the hole also hides the mounting holes.  So you can't have the brackets installed and the cover plate.  No big deal... these brackets are all drilled, filed, painted and fasteners installed.

I had to put everything together to get a good look at it.  I am very happy...

TailbeaconX / transponder:  This thing is super small and super light.  I am opting to put it in the fuselage since the Sportsman does not have a tail light, and also because it is relatively fragile.

To make the mounting bracket I went overboard.  Layed up 3 layers of glass on the outside of the fuselage to get the curve (which is so slight across 3" I shouldn't not have bothered).  The mounting flange is a chunk of 6 layer glass that I had laying around.  I drilled fitted the TBx, then bonded it to the mount plate.  When that was done, 2 small layers on each side of the flange and it is super strong.  Mounted all the hardware, then bonded the whole thing to the inner fuselage.

The entire Tailbeacon (including the mounting flange) only weighs 5.25 oz (155 grams).  That is insane...

The GPS comes unterminated... now terminated.

That's it for now.  Wiring is next.

Extended Heavy Duty Main Gear - Part II

The gear legs have been to the powder coaters, and are installed back on the fuselage.

I have been debating for awhile how to jack the plane once fully assembled.  The issue:

• The Sportsman (or any rod type spring gear) have no natural spot to jack a wheel.
• Bushtires just make it worse.  I have the bolt on axles, which gives you a small amount of area to jack on, which is gone with the big tires.

Many folks have been using a jack pad which is bolted onto the inside of the gear leg (same holes as the axle).  This will work for me, but I have to make it super wide in order to actually grab onto it with a floor jack.

The plan is to start with some 4"x4"x0.25" 6061 Aluminum L stock.

Angle:  With the bush tires, the sportsman sits very nose high.  I calculated the angle needed on the bracket to be parallel with the ground and came up with 23 degrees.  I checked on the forum, and 22 degrees is the number...

Here is the first one rough cut and assembled just to check for any interference issues.  It even lifts the plane (no wings, no engine, partial interior, partial panel), but a 2x4 is needed as my floor jack is not tall enough.  Need to finish this one, and then build a mirror image.

I can already hear people asking "what is that for...???".

Both brackets roughed out, ready to head for welding.

Brackets welded and cleaned up.

Per Ted's suggestion, I put a couple AN-4 threaded holes on the 'foot'.  Ted uses these so the jack won't slip off.  I am planning on using them to mount a hockey puck for the jack to sit on.  At least that is the plan.... 

All primed and ready for paint.

Prior to painting, I ran them through AlumiPrep and Alodine, then primed them.

Finished product.  The puck is to protect the finish, stop it from slipping off the jack, and to allow the jack to be a bit shorter.  They are temporary... put them in when needed, and remove when not.  2 x AN4 bolts through the bottom.  Can be installed and removed in less than a minute.