Glareshield Part II

 The cowling is in full swing, and working on FWF stuff.  I did the glareshield in Nov 2022, but there were a couple things that needed work.

1. It is really tight to get in and out.  I have a feeling this is a COVID glareshield, that is not up to Glasair's regular spec
2. I was not happy with the corners around the cage.  Needed more clearance.
3. Need to mount the compass.  I mounted it in the middle of the main section of the panel, which is not the center of the airplane - and have to fill a couple holes.
4. I did not open up the holes for the fans enough.
5. I screwed up on the rounded edge on the pilot side, and tried to bond back in the piece I cut out.  Well, that did not go well so time to do it right.
6. The finish on the glareshield is spotty.  The whole thing needs sanding, maybe some filling and a fresh coat of primer - or not.  Not sure what contact cement will stick best to.

So on a Sunday afternoon it is time to right these wrongs.  I have the material (leather) to finish it, and want to do so soon.

The glareshield has been trimmed, and the fiberglass deficiencies have been fixed.

I put the seat in so I could satisfy myself that I could see the indicators at the top of the panel with the glareshield in, sitting in the seat.  And yes I can.

This picture is taken from eye level.

Time for upholstery.

Glareshield and Bulkhead A cover going to the local upholstery guy tomorrow, and need to do a bit of hasty sanding and filling on the glareshield.  I really hope this works out...

Bulkhead A.  I painted it with JetFlex 'slate grey'... this was actually the first piece I painted (with a roller).  It looks lopsided, but it has been installed (which doesnt mean its not lopsided...)

This was originally 'zolatone' grey, but i sanded it and painted.  You can see a lot of defects in the fiberglass.

Dropped both pieces of with an upholsterer.  He is going to add a 1/4" foam pad to the bulkhead cover.  When he was starting to prep everything, he sent me the following picture.

There are a number of needle marks from some kind of previous embroidery attempt.  He asked me if I wanted to get a new one before he starts - but with Glasair moving to China, I think the chance of getting anything from them is less than zero.  Not very happy about this, as the kit was NOT CHEAP.  But guessing this was done by whomever they purchase it from.

Got everything back last night.  Looks really good.

All assembled, fit and working!

Need to get some brass screws for the compass, but other than that it is complete.

Wiring / Cleanup

I have been working on cleaning up the wiring mess I created for myself.  I call it 10 lbs of poop in a 2 lb bag.  But realistically, if you add up the weight of all the avionics and wiring its probably closer to 30 lbs all in.  Not that I have weighed it.

Having a super light engine, my plan was to move as much forward as possible to help offset the weight.  Between the panel and the firewall are the following components:

• 2X 10.3" displays
• Backup EFIS
• Prop controller
• Advanced ACM
• UL ECU, boost controller and aux box
• COM radio
• Room for IFR GPS and NAV/COM
• Avionics backup battery
• Header tank
• Audio panel
• EMS
• ADSB receiver
• Hall effect sensor
• GPS 2020 receiver
• Skyview expansion bus
• And all the normal 'stuff'.

Add all that together, and its 10 lbs of poop in a 2 lb bag.

Top down view of the mayhem...

The relatively clean panel hides the mayhem that hides behind it.

The GOOD news is everything works.  All the avionics are connected, the ECU is talking to the EMS, all the controls on the sticks do what they are supposed to.  Radio / audio panel / audio all works.  Servos are talking to the system.  Prop controller has power and just needs connection to the hub.  All of the lights (nav, strobes, taxi, landing, panel, overhead) all work.  Pitot heat is ready to go once the wings are attached and wiring finished.  ECU indicator lights.  Circuits for the engine and transfer pumps.  It all works.  Yay me.

It's not 'pretty' like I hoped it would be.  But to move the weight forward and contain it all between the panel and firewall is an extreme challenge.  If I could get rid of the ACM and use CANbus only, it would be way neater - but that is not the path I chose.

Once the weather dries out a bit, the engine will come off and the real firewall will go in, and then I can finish up the firewall forward wiring (fuel pumps, batteries, relays, shunt sense wires, prop controller, etc)

I am tired of wiring, and look forward to building parts again (which is totally ironic).

Merry Christmas.

UL Power - ECU Wiring

I thought the UL ECU wiring would be simple, and in some ways it is simple.  But as always, the devil is in the details.

Power:  The ECU has 6 wires that all need to be attached to an ECU switch.

Ground:  The ECU has 5 wires that go to ground.

FPCR (Fuel Pump Control Relay(s)):  The ECU can control the pump(s).  I opted to do so, but there is a 2nd bypass circuit around the relays just in case.

Ignition:  Circuits for left / right or 1/2 coils to switches (or a standard key switch).  Grounded they are OFF, open they are ON - just like a mag.

Aux box:  Provides ambient pressure.  Plus other things, but this is all I am using it for.

Boost controller:  Control line from the ECU to the Boost Controller, plus power and ground.

CAN-bus:  Data lines to grab engine data via CAN.

RS-232:  Separate RS-232 connection for an EFIS feed, or to use the UL-READ software.  I need to order this cable.

Discrete engine inputs:  Separate inputs for Engine RPM and fuel consumption.  I am not using these, as they are provided over the CAN-bus.

Dummy lights:  2 LED's.  1 for 'check engine' (which indicates a sensor fault), and 1 for 'low battery'.  I planned for both of these in the panel.  The ECU only provides a ground to activate these LED's, power is separate.

The above is the basic lay of the land.

Current schematic below.

At present, everything is wired except the key switch.

The challenges:

• The ECU is mounted on a tray forward of the instrument panel.  If it needs to be removed, take out the MFD, remove the two harnesses, loosen the bolts and its free.  You should be able to do all this sitting upright in the seat.
• Making the above happen is a challenge.  I had to route all the wires in two consistent bundles (one firewall forward, and one for the cockpit interconnects) and not running in 4 different directions.
• To do so, I fabricated some wiring 'braces' that everything is tie wrapped to.  But its all very condensed. Hopefully this works out.

Progress:

• Everything is wired for the ECU, and it powers up (the LED's flash upon startup).
• The next big step is to see if the ECU connects to the CANBUS on the EMS221.
• The wires are not in their final position.  I want to make sure everything works before doing the final tie wraps (hence no pictures, it looks pretty ugly right now)

What's left to wire:

• Magnetometer:  Cable is run, but needs to be shortened (ordered it too long)
• Fuel tank probes.  Wires to the EMS, needs to head out to the wings.
• Sticks:  Sticks themselves are wired, just need to route them and connectorize from the ACM (plus the pull downs from the audio panel, com, and ACM aircraft rear connector
• RF / antennas:  VOR, 2xCOM antennas.

Probably forgetting something, but its almost there.

Fuse Panel

I have a couple circuits that I dont want to run through the ACM.  Why you ask?  Well, what if it fails.  Or, what if the current draw is high and the function is not essential?  

Things that are going to be fused and not through the breaker panel or ACM:

1. LED indicators.  2 for the UL ECU (Check Engine and Low Battery - the ECU does not provide power for these, only a ground to activate them).  Plus another for the Alternate Air Inlet on the airbox.  Dont need carb heat as the engine is injected, but need an 'emergency' air source if the filter gets iced up.  1A circuit
2. Header tank warning lights.  If the ECU dies, I want these alive and functional.  Another 1A circuit
3. Seat lumbar support.  It has a small pump and inflates/deflates the bags in the seat.
4. Seat heaters.  I am a wus.  I like seat heaters.  These draw more than the ACM has capacity for.
5. Other stuff down the road.  Will be nice to have a place to get power that is somewhat readily accessible.  2 spare circuits.

I found a really nice automotive style 6 fuse panel that is small and light, and has indicator lights as to their health.

The plan is to mount it on the starboard side of the fuselage, just above the rudder pedals on the side of the fuselage.  The original plan was to make a plate and attach it to the cage tubes with adel clamps.  Well, I hate adel clamps, and mounting it up there with the bulk of the avionics installed would be a nightmare - so I decided to bond the bracket to the fuselage.

The bracket is a simple hat shape.  The tabs pick up the holes in the fuse panel, and the bulk of the bracket will be epoxied on.  The below pic is the bracket clecoed in place, ready for bonding.

Because its winter here, I need enough heat to get the resin to cure.  Luckily I have a big heater in the garage, but it will cost me.  The bracket has already been fit to the fuse panel so it should just screw in once cured.  I waited until a relatively warm day (aka 10 degrees C) to do this.

Done and first circuit wired (power for LED indicator lights and header warning lights).

Instrument Panel Redo (Carbon Shroud Only)

 It's a long and sad tale, but I had to replace my carbon panel with a new one.  Which meant cutting and fasteners all over again.  Carbon fiber is itchy... do not recommend cutting it and then going to bed.

The good news is everything is faster 2nd time around.  In 2 evenings I had everything cut and most of the fasteners installed.  I have to make new brackets for the nutplates on the switch plates, because of the switch plate dimensions, standard nutplates will show the rivets in the carbon.  Hopefully this too goes faster 2nd time around.

I am finally (almost) back to where I was in April (its now August).  Still missing a few fasteners that will need to be riveted in later.

I have been wiring like a madman for the past 2 days.  The aircraft front and aircraft rear ACM connectors are done.  The trim and flap connector is done on the ACM end, plus the aileron trim wing bulkhead connector.  There is still a ton of wiring to do.  Like days and days more.  Plus the engine wiring integration (which should be relatively easy... famous last words).

Everything is working as before, except I have added some wiring.

• Autopilot servos:  Not working.  The ACM says they are drawing power, but the Skyview network cant see them.  Troubleshooting with Advanced. Fixed and working.  Factory harness was wired incorrectly, and I missed it.
• Recognition light.  Working.
• Wing wiring to bulkhead connectors.  Working
• Glareshield fans.  
• Overhead cabin light
• Compass light
• Aileron trim.  Not tested
• Elevator trim.  Not tested
• Flap position sensor.  Not tested (potentiometer not yet installed)

The last piece to mount is the magnetometer.  I dont know why, but I have been dreading this.  Used some foam / glass test pieces I had and just chopped them up.  Simple and light.  The below picture is bonded to the fuselage.  The aluminum bracket is just for placement and will be removed.

Glareshield

 I keep waiting to simply 'install' something, that doesn't require cutting, drilling, grinding, etc.  After 5 years of cutting, drilling and grinding I think I'm due.  Well, today is not that day.

I bought my fiberglass glare shield from Glasair in January 2021, along with the panel blank.  I kind of assembled everything when I got it in March, and it didn't fit.  Well, that was just to make me feel good and I had lots of work to go until I needed to put it in.  That time is now.

After the issue with the panel misalignment were corrected, I HOPED it would just slip in.  NOT.  It does not fit at all.  Further, the instructions (which did not come with it either, but I found on the forum doc library) don't say anything about cutting.  After checking with a few builders, yes it needs to be cut.

Here is the starting point.

I made a paper template that is the same size (and non symmetrical shape) as the blank.

Next the template goes into the glare shield location.  I marked with a pen below the window opening, and then added ~1" after the fact, cut to the +1" line.  

In some areas I took off a couple inches, in others nothing.

The trick seems to be getting the depth of the glare shield right first, because that changes everything else. I worked on this in bits and pieces, where in hindsight should have focused on this first.

The big trick is getting around the cage tubes on either end of the panel.  That took the most time.

A fellow builder told me its like doing the windows... fit, mark, trim, fit, mark, trim, etc, etc.  I haven't done my windows yet, but now I know.

I cut too much off the aft glaresheild 'lip' on the left side.  So a piece cut off is being grafted back on....

Its basically fit now.  Needs a little bit more finessing.

Also to do:

1. Find some muffin fans to install in the glare shield.  Need a fair bit of CFM, 12V, at least 6" with an attractive grill.
2. Figure out how to wire them so they can be disconnected easily
3. Tabs.  The forward part of the glare shield slips into tabs that hold it up.  2 recommended.  Aluminum, with a bend, bonded to the fuselage.

Fans.  Found some on Amazon (2 for $35 CAD).  They ended up being 4 wire computer fans... Pinout:

• Black - ground
• Yellow - 12 V
• Blue - PWM control
• Green - RPM

If you connect just ground and 12V, it runs at full speed.  The other 2 are not required.

To start, I marked a line under the glare shield where the panel to firewall struts are.  Had a nightmare I was going to hit run into them...

Then I measured up from the brow of the glare shield 10".  Centered the fan, and drilled a pilot.  I didn't have a bit enough hole saw (would need about a 4.7" holesaw), so I used the largest I had and then enlarged the hole on the drum sander.

They are not perfectly symmetrical, but darn close.  I doubt anyone will ever notice.

The fan covers are from Amazon as well.  $15 Canadian for 2.

Next is tabs...

It was recommended to clamp the tab in place.  Well, I fought with it for a while and finally just drilled and put a (waxed) cleco in to hold it while curing.  This also had the benefit that I could position the tabs and put the glareshield in place and ensure the front engaged the tabs.  They did...

Last two things are wiring and hardware to mount the fans.

The power source will be the ACM, which will be on the left hand side of the radio stack.  So the plan is to bring the wires down the left hand side with a 2 pin connector and end them somewhere that you can reach under the panel and disconnect with a minimum of fuss.

Prop Controller / Manual Pitch Change Switch

This entry is about a lesson learned, and creeping elegance.

When I layed out my panel, I put a spot in right above the throttle for the prop controller (which goes in a 2.5" standard hole).  What I FORGOT was the manual course / fine pitch switch needed for manual operation.

I dont have any room, and where I do have room it doesnt fit (too tall).  This is the wee beasty...

After much pondering, I decided under the throttle / instrument panel would work.  Its close to the throttle, out of the way, etc.  I could use 2 of the bolts the secure the panel to the cage to tie it in.

The first version was pretty crude and was not square.  The 2nd version was much better, but for some reason I decided the mount the switch on the face of the panel.  Once I realized that the mounting holes in the switch were threaded (6-32), I pitched that one and made a 3rd.

2nd version

3rd (and hopefully final) version

The ultimate position would be beside the controller, but I dont have room.  2nd best would be on the switch panel beside the throttle, but the switch is too tall for that.  The other consideration was to keep it away from peoples knees.  It is in the center of the airplane (lined up with the tunnel cover below).

Schematics and Wiring

I have done a fair bit of wiring in my time.  I don't consider myself an expert, but it almost always works. Where I struggle is on making it look 'right'.  I want this one to be 'right'.

You need a wiring diagram - that is a must.  However, I am also building a wire run list in Microsoft Excel.  The two go hand in hand.

The wire run list show you extreme detail on each wire.  Where is it from, where does it go, what does it connect to, wire size, color, etc.  The schematic gives you most of those details.  The nice thing about excel is you can filter and search.

Below is an example of the autopilot servo wiring.

And here is the drawing from Advanced.

Note:  I do not have a yaw servo, but the ACM supports it.

Where the Advanced drawing is correct, I am simply using that.  No point reinventing the wheel.  However where it needs modification, I am drawing from scratch.

I looked around for quite awhile for a good schematic software.  The basic requirements:

• Multi platform.  If I ever sell the plane, someone will need to be able to edit the drawings.
• PDF output compatible (this is pretty universal)
• Decent parts library
• Easy to use.
• Preferably free (or low cost)
• Supported.  Did not want to find a piece of free software that goes away or is not supported in 5 years (as an example).

After lots of hunting and frustration, a fellow builder put me onto QElectroTech.  On a scale of 1 to 10, I give it about a 7.  It is by no means perfect - but its free, and does most things that you need.  It has a pretty good parts library, and you can make your own parts (what the software calls elements).  Its multi platform as well.  It does take a bit of getting used to.

Below is my main power distribution (not yet finished).

And my control stick wiring (this one is pretty much finished).

Bottom line:  The documentation is going to be a lot of work - especially making the 'elements' where needed.  But it is necessary and worthwhile.

Instrument Panel - Part III (Wiring)

Now the wiring begins.... I both love and dread this part.  Love it because it makes things work, and dread because compromises will need to be made.

Step 1:  Electrical bus(ses).

Target is 3:

1. ACM - which includes avionics, lights, pitot heat, etc.  Everything that the ACM powers, which is everything but engine.

2.  Engine bus.  Stand alone bus for the engine, using breakers.

3.  Everything else bus.  This will be fuses, and for things that dont really matter - like seat heaters.  This will be the last priority.

The output of the two batteries goes to a central point, which is the current shunt.  This shunt will measure the total input / output to the batteries and will be inclusive of everything.  From the shunt, power goes 3 ways - to the ACM, Engine Bus, and to a fuse panel.

Fuel Pumps

The UL Power ECU has the provision to 'control' the fuel pump (or pumps) via a relay.  The ECU drives the coil on the relay (Fuel Pump Control Relay - FPCR), so it can turn the pumps on or off.  This is useful when on the ground working on things.  The system will pressurize, then the pumps shut off.

However, what if the relay fails?  So my fuel pumps switches have an 'auto' position (which goes through the relays) and 'force', which does not go through the FPCR.  Overkill?  maybe.

Everything else engine needs to wait until it arrives - hopefully in late May.

From a wiring perspective... 2 power feeds from each of the pump breakers.  1 feed goes directly to the switch, one goes to the FPCR.  The center position of the switches goes to the pumps.  The pump wiring is on a connector as the whole fuel pump tray is removable (kinda - have to take the header tank out first).

Header tank sensors.

Well this has been fun.  The sensors I bought from Radiant are cool, and I tested them very thoroughly with water to ensure they do what they should do.  But their connectors are, lets say, interesting.

The sensor is connected with a USB cable.  The head unit (of which I have 2) has the power connections.  Plus the cable lengths were way too long.  So I shorted everything up and put them both on one connector.

They are temporarily wired to power off a breaker to verify the wiring and connector.  Debating whether to power them from the ACM or a breaker or fuse.  Probably the ACM long term.

They flash red when liquid is not present.  Obviously the tank is empty, which is a good sign.

Radient recommends siliconing the LED's into the holes.  Not sure if I am going to do that, or make a mount.

 

ACM and Pre-Built Harnesses

I love the ACM.  I love the harnesses.  I have to figure out how to tame them.

To start, I plugged everything in.  No wires are tied in anywhere.  Just wanted to get the lay of the land (so to speak).  Holy crap, its a lot of wires and I am nowhere near done yet.

Dont judge me based on these pics.  Please.

The plan is to figure out where everything will go, then take it all apart and finish the trays and brackets, then reassemble for good. But I have to build the aircraft front, rear, and wing harnesses.  Everything is ordered to do that.

Main Power Distribution

OK - this is a mess.  But you have to start somewhere.  Again, the purpose was to figure out what goes where.

Two EarthX ETX900 batteries, two master relays with flyback diodes.  Each battery can be switched in or out.  This is all pseudo temporary, but it works.

The output of the two relays is bridged together, and the starter will come off here.  From the bridge point, goes to the main shunt with 6 gauge wire.  From there, goes to the ACM and engine bus.  The battery, aircraft frame, and engine all tied to a single firewall ground point.  Also a 10 gauge wire to the avionics bay ground bus.  This may need to increase to 8 gauge.

Engine Bus

As the ACM shies away from anything 'engine' related, I decided to have breakers for everything engine and fuel related.

10 gauge wire coming from the main current shunt on the hot side of the firewall.  It passes through a Hall effect sensor, so I will know (in theory) the current draw of everything engine / fuel related (but I won't know what is drawing what - just the total).

The Hall effect sensor is mount under the starboard avionics tray.  This may have to move simply for serviceability.  It will be very difficult to change - if not impossible.  On 2nd thought, if the MFD is removed there is a clear shot to it, but all of the wiring is not yet installed so that may change.  Time will tell.

Harnesses to build

- Aircraft front:  Comprises of prop controller, taxi lights (which will go to the wings - but that is a different story), cabin lights, panel fans, belly strobe, elevator trim.

- Autopilot servos:  These are pre-built from Advanced, need to be terminated on servo end.

- Sticks and flaps:  PTT, AP disconnect, IDENT, flip flops, Audio Panel switch, flap position potentiometer

- Wings (aka Aircraft Rear):  Pitot heat, landing / taxi lights, nav / strobes, fuel transfer pumps

- Engine sensors:  EGT, CHT, Fuel Pressure, CANBUS (to ECU, which has a large number of sensors), fuel tank sensors, etc.

The panel has taken a bit of a back seat due to waiting for a new panel from Glasair.  Should be here August 9th, then I have to recut it all over again.

Autopilot / Servo Wiring and Avionics Trays

 As part of my avionics package from Advanced, I purchased their pitch and roll servos.  All the servos come from the same manufacturer... also purchased the servo mounting tray from Glasair.

All of the brackets have been fit, fasteners drilled, and I added a few lightening holes in the tray itself.  While I was at it, I finished the left and right avionics trays that mount to the cage.  Lots of drilling and fitting nutplates.

All these were put through aluimiprep, alodyne, primed and painted.  The paint is PPG, and matches the grey of the cage.

Remote radio unit repositioned slightly due to cable length.

Everything dry fit.

Installed and wired.  I was SOOO careful to not mix up the wiring for the pitch and roll servos, and guess what - I cut them the wrong lengths.  So I de-pinned the connector and switched everything around.  

Left and right avionics trays are finished and nut plates installed.

The top picture is the left side tray (the IBBS is mounted under the tray). The next two pics are the right side tray.  I have not mounted the audio panel or Hall effect sensor yet... waiting for hardware.

I am going to need to raise the EMS and Audio Panel to clear nut plates underneath (they overlap each other slightly).

Handful of things to do before they are mounted - and actually will not be fully mounted until the firewall comes out.  2 holes need to be drilled in the forward tabs for the trays.

Next is the big tray that will hold the ACM, Skyview Network Hub, ECU, Boost Controller, Aux Box, and ADHRS.  I very quickly put it together to see if it was going to do what I wanted, with stuff I had in the shop.

Now that I think this is going to work, have gone back and finished drilling it, and making a few modifications, plus adding lightening holes.  Oh, and drilling for fasteners.... ugh.

After finishing, ready to mount.

Installed with most components present.

Lots of wiring still to do, but progress is definitely being made.