Progress... getting on a roll.

Tuesday evening... (Sept 2, 2025)

Pin keepers installed in the stab / elevator / trim.  THAT was a challenge solo.  Thank god for the body work stand.  I use that thing ALL THE TIME.

I was flying solo tonight, so had to get inventive on how to hold the elevator up.  Tape worked!

Peeled a lot of tape off the front window... looks reasonable, but not perfect.  I think I can fix the problem areas.  Also got some silpruf on the interior, but it is coming off with a bit of effort.  Forgot to take a pic.  2 days until the clecos come out.

On the last engine run the pipe off the turbo had a shake.  It was only supported with 1 mount, and its a long pipe.  Added a second mount at 90 degrees (roughly).  I think this will work.  It is definitely less 'shakey' just wiggling it.

That was a 3.5 hour evening.  But it was definitely progress.

Front window came out of the clamps!

Looks pretty good.

Put lock nuts on the new exhaust clamp... I found some.

Installed Deutsch connector under the tail cone for the rudder trim.  The bulkhead connector finally arrived from China.

Seriously impressed with these connectors.  The elevator side has been converted (from molex) as well.

OK, well my trim connector upgrade did not go as planned.  I temporarily assembled everything to test the wiring, and nothing worked.  Very quickly I found that the thin 26 gauge wires were either broken, or about to break.  I have spliced on larger gauge aviation wire on both sides and am testing again.  The ray allen 5 conductor wire is very thin and weak.

The strange / weird thing... I attempted to use solder sleeves to graft on new wires.  The solder in the sleve would not stick to the ray allen wire.  I ended up tinning them first with solder and an iron first, and then using a solder sleeve.  I did a sample piece first (finally learned my lesson) and it is a strong joint now.

I put everything together, and nothing would work.  Zero.  Took it all apart and realized that on the socket side I did not have the pins fully engaged.  It seems like there are two 'clicks' when you push the pin / socket into the connector.  I only got past the first 'click' the first time.  Once fully engaging the pins everything worked as intended.

Checking the elevator travel.  Manual calls for +23 and -20 (+/- 1 degree).  I am getting the -20, but not the +23... about 2 degrees short.  Filing the stop plate through the belly inspection panel.  After an afternoon of filing and checking, I gained a degree.  One more to go.

Sunday... Sept 7

Put the prop on.  3 times :-)

The manual says to pack the cavity between the thrust bearing and threads with grease... it says to use a spatula.  So I did... the blades were not fully seating.  The ferrule was lose... and it was visible.  Later the manual says too much grease will cause exactly this.  So I took it apart and cleaned out the grease and reinserted the blade.  Was better, but not correct.  So did it again.. on each blade.  Finally they were all seating correctly and torqued per spec.

Next was the bead of silpruf between the window and fuselage.  Lots of cleaning of crap out first... my theory is to get all the leftover crap out.  The 'dressing' needs to stick on all 3 sides.  So lots of pulling out the leftover bits (I could have done a better job during the insertion of the window... being honest).  Then taping the gap... 

Then cutting the gap...

Then filling the gap and smoothing it...

That was a 10 hour day... Monday will be seeing what I have... fingers crossed.

Engine install completion - lots of little stuff

Working on finishing the engine install, and planning on running it when complete.

First item is the starter.  Having a dual battery system with 2 master relays means I have to pull off the 'bridge' between the two relays for the starter (so I can start on either or both batteries).  Been debating for awhile how to accomplish this.  Finally decided on a 4 position terminal adel clamped to the engine mount close to the relays.

Next is the air / oil separator.  There is no 'good' location... but finally just did it and will adjust later if necessary.  Per the UL manual, you want an uphill slope from the engine breather to the separator, and a downhill slope from the separator to the return.  I think I have this figured.

Back to an old problem... there was an issue with the oil return line from the air/oil separator that goes back to the sump.  I think it was bent, and got a replacement.  But I never finished installing it for some reason.  Need to get this fixed before putting oil in.  I did not put the screw back in that secures it.  I think that was because the oil line for the turbo needs to come off to do so... so that will be a job.

EGT's and CHT's are all installed.  Vacuumed out the exhaust by removing the waste gate to get any chips out so they do not get into the turbo.  I didnt hear anything when doing this...  

I checked the EFIS to see what the sensors were reading, and they were all not reading anywhere near correct.  Asked Advanced, and there was a bug with UL engines and direct read from the EMS.  New software obtained that fixes it (AF5000VX161036B06-MV16.afz).  Installed today, and works like a charm.  All probes are reading 'ambient-ish'.

Plug wires... I have been dreading this.  Like really dreading.  Making them looks right, not be a dogs breakfast all over the place, and was super worried about the electrical connections, etc.

So far, initial impressions are UL has this figured out.  One end is crimped, and the other end (engine side) has like a screw terminal inside the plug wire housing.  You literally just thread it in.

I labeled everything... which ignition it is coming from, and what plug ig goes to.  On both ends.  Yes, this is overkill...  Forward plug is ignition 1, aft plug is ignition 2.  Finished one side (3 cylinders, both plugs) in an afternoon.

Another builder and I had toyed with using the cross bar of the intercooler to organize the plug wires with some 3D printed parts.  I decided to go cheap and fast and just use HD plastic.  Used the grommet from the engine kit that goes in the aft end of the baffle as a template.  Small piece of angle aluminum and an adel clamp, and its done.

Exhaust pipes back from the ceramic coating.

Need to secure the bottom of the exhaust.  Brackets on the exhaust already installed.  Used the RV 'trick' of a thick hose as the support brace, with some stainless tabs on the end.  Need to get the correct hardware.

Fit the cowl, spinner and prop.  Lines up pretty good.  Not quite perfect, but close.

I started torquing the prop... but then found out (thanks Paul) about Service Bulletins from Airmaster.  One applies to me... brushes on the pitch change motor.  Email sent to Airmaster... my serial number is on the list.  Need to determine if the whole things comes apart again or not.

Brake lines from the park brake out are complete.

Turned the engine over from the starter with 6 plugs out.  Turned over great!  But... no oil pressure reading.  Talked to Ray... I turned it over for about 20 seconds.  Needs more than that.  Adding to the to do list.

The engine ground wire location is beneath the starter on the right hand side of the engine.  Long wire, pain to fasten.  Found an M8 threaded hole on the left side of the engine... shorter run, easier to install.  Seems to work great.

All lines are secure.

Shortened and rerouted the engine ECU to throttle body line.

Last thing is to obtain more hose for the breather and install.

'Almost ready to fly' my ass.  This has been a lot of work, and a lot of custom work.  Between the cowl, bracketry, exhaust, electrical system changes, this beast has taken a very long time.

Now onto the rest...

Exhaust

 The UL engines comes with exhaust, muffler, etc.  Its all stainless, and very nicely welded.

There are two pipes... one off the turbo, and one off the wastegate.  Both are on V bands.

The OD of the pipe coming off the waste gate is ~2.38" (60 mm) and the turbo is 2.75" (70 mm).

The rough plan is to come off the pipes at a 45 heading towards the center.  Then another 45 to head out the bottom.

Note:  The waste gate can be rotate.  Mine was hitting the outlet pipe until I rotated that.  Once I rotated the waste gate now I can have the exhaust pointing straight down.

Going to mock everything up in place, tack everything, and then take it apart and get it finish welded - at least that was plan A.

Talked to the US UL Distributor, and asked what is the size of the pipes.  The response is "METRIC".  So where on earth can you find metric exhaust parts in North America?  I have found some, but they are not plentiful.

Ray (UL US Distributor) thinks that the factory can make exhaust with the correct tubing.  That would be good, but then the question is cost and shipping cost.  Regardless, I still have to mock everything up.

I bought a bunch of bends and fittings from the Aviation department of Amazon.  Here is what I discovered.

• 2.75" tubing matches up really well with the 70mm exhaust.
• 2.5" tubing slips over the 60mm wastegate end.

I have not cut anything yet.  Just wanted to get an idea where to go next.  I think this is going to work.

After staring (and cursing) this for weeks, I am giving up.  Going to find a shop that can just weld this up and I pay the bill.  Stupid god damn metric pipe.  I cannot find a good source for metric 316 stainless.

Contacted Hilder Rosales today at Hard Industries in Arlington.  Going to Arlington Skyfest next week, and will take him the stubs and see what he can do. I have had enough for searching for parts... I WANT AN EASY BUTTON.

Also, I contacted and heard back from UL Power.  They can source me 60mm and 70mm pipe and bends - just need to know how long.  Shipping is going to be expensive...  There is a new distributor in Canada and he is going to bring them over with his next shipment.

So fast forward 5 weeks (now early october), and I still dont have my exhaust bends.  The new Canadian distributor says that DHL is not reporting location, and they should arrive any day now.

Fast forward to January 2024.  Still no progress.

I was lamenting to some friends that I have no experience here.  So we had a building day... and I now have a TIG in the shop (on loan).

This should not be very hard... it really shouldnt.

So as I step 1... we put the lower cowl on, and mapped out using a piece of welding rod where the exit is.

Next... I need to fix the tips in place off the bottom of the fuselage and start working my way forward to the engine. 

February 2024.  PROGRESS

So I made a bracket using the air deflector fasteners as the holding point.  Then I bought some hole saws that match the tip diameter.  Voila..

So after cutting and grinding and fitting, I have one pipe.

It is not tacked yet.  I used tongue depressors and hose clamps at the joints (thanks to Bob for that trick).  Need to start on the 2nd one after I get home from the next business trip.

2nd pipe in place and close...

So after a bunch of fits and starts (long story...), I have exhaust.

Next is to build the mounts... and send the pipes for ceramic coating...