Status Update - Wed, Jan 8 2025

Things are really moving now...

Engine bay is done, except for swapping a few nylocs out for all metal lock nuts.  Plus the exit hose for the breather (on order).

Prop pitch change motor is out for a SB.

Advanced Flight Systems PFD is out for a screen repair (developed a horizontal 'line' 1/3rd up from the bottom).

Need to finish the vents.

Need to finish the wing fold pockets and hatches, and complete the wing to fuselage fuel system.

Wing tips... need to seam them and fit them, plus fasteners.

Need to finish the tip fairings for the horizontal stab and elevator (all drilled and fit).

Need new lower rudder hinge bracket.  Needs to be offset 0.2".

Brake lines are done, just need to add fluid and bleed.  I have the pump, just need fluid.

Cowl:  Minor cosmetic finishing.  It fits, is easy to get on and off (with 2 people for the lower cowl).  No rubs.

Front window... need to finish sand the edges, will bond in after paint.

Reassemble interior.

Push rod for starboard aileron.  Got new one (lost one).

Finish taxi / landing light assemblies (screws and aft bracket).  Parts ordered.

All BNC connections are complete and everything works.

Need to buy ELT, and fabricate bracket.

Need to work on paint scheme.

Calibrate fuel senders, and perform fuel flow test(s).  This is crucial for my peace of mind.

Reassemble prop... RUN THE ENGINE!  This will be a great day.

Stainless fuselage exhaust plate.  Need to make hardpoints for aft mounts.

Prop wiring... done, but I want to find a more elegant solution for the connector.

The list is getting smaller... having the engine and panel virtually done is HUGE.

Goal is to be ready for Smiley and OSH 2025.  Going to be a GREAT year.

Have booked vacation for the last 2 weeks of March.  That is when I plan to paint it.

Firewall Forward Fuel System

The last two lines for fuel are from the gascolator to the engine, and from the engine back to the firewall for return to the header.

I started working on this months ago as I wanted to extend the return line that came with the engine and could not get it off.  Rather than fight it, I am leaving it as is.

I really wanted the return line secured and decided to use the starter as a mount.  I had a -36 adel clamp which was too big.  It also wouldnt fit with the rubber on, so I modified it a bit.

These are all done (many months later). All lines were tested and fire sleeved.

Spark Plugs / High Tension Leads

The good news:  thinking about spark plug leads means I am getting closer.

The bad news:  NOTHING ON THIS GOD DAMN ENGINE IS STANDARD.

Full disclosure:  I do not have much experience making spark plug leads.  I have made a set for 1 side of the ignition on the Emeraude, and they are a PITA.  I have never made an automotive style plug lead.

UL has a blog post that documents how you make up a lead.  It is very informative... however, they crimp the leads with a pair of needle nose pliers.  Really?  How about a real crimper - PLEASE.

Being new at this, I started looking for how to do this correctly.  There has to be a proper crimper for this.

Everything in North America is 8 to 8.5mm.  Well the UL leads are 6.5mm.  I cannot find a crimper.  Luckily there is a fellow at my airport with a 4 cylinder UL so I asked him.  He bought 4 pairs of crimpers before he found the right one.  Really?  Luckily he loaned it to me.  Will document it more later in the post.

On top of that, it is recommended to solder the connection.  Not a fan.  Solder cracks and breaks on an engine.  A proper crimp is the way to go IMO.

The engine comes with a bunch of cable and ends.  12 crimps... no spares.  Oh, and they are $4 USD each from Wicks.  Really?

After many months, these are DONE.

Oil Filler Door

When I was extending the cowling, I tried REALLY hard to preserve the joggle for the oil door - and failed.  Some resin and filler got into the joggle, and I have been dreading trying to fix it.

As is usual, I have been pondering how to fix this for awhile and finally settled on my dremel with a round bit - kind of like an engraving bit (not sure exactly what its called).  Then a flapper sanding drum.

The door is slightly too big and will need to be trimmed down slightly.

I think the plan will be to get it to fit as best as possible, and then tape up the door - put some filler in the joggle and cleco it in place, then pop it out and clean it up.  I think that is the best option.

After a lot of sanding and grinding I have it fitting quite well.  The cowl has been cut including the slot for the hinge.  Still need to cut the slot for the latch and drill the hinges.  Going to do the hinge first and cleco it in.

Hinge cut and drilled.

Its not bad considering the mess I made.  But definitely needs cleanup.

So what I ended up doing...

• Put a single cleco on the aft end of the door to keep it closed - essentially where the latch is going to be.
• Put packing tape all along the oil cooler door
• Packed filler into the joggle
• Closed and clecoed the door
• Packed filler into the seam
• Let it dry, popped the door out

Well that worked about 70%.  Needs some additional refinement.  Below pic is of the 2nd fill.

So after all the high build primer the door doesnt want to fit anymore.  Not a huge deal, but needs some love.

Done!

Engine install completion - lots of little stuff

Working on finishing the engine install, and planning on running it when complete.

First item is the starter.  Having a dual battery system with 2 master relays means I have to pull off the 'bridge' between the two relays for the starter (so I can start on either or both batteries).  Been debating for awhile how to accomplish this.  Finally decided on a 4 position terminal adel clamped to the engine mount close to the relays.

Next is the air / oil separator.  There is no 'good' location... but finally just did it and will adjust later if necessary.  Per the UL manual, you want an uphill slope from the engine breather to the separator, and a downhill slope from the separator to the return.  I think I have this figured.

Back to an old problem... there was an issue with the oil return line from the air/oil separator that goes back to the sump.  I think it was bent, and got a replacement.  But I never finished installing it for some reason.  Need to get this fixed before putting oil in.  I did not put the screw back in that secures it.  I think that was because the oil line for the turbo needs to come off to do so... so that will be a job.

EGT's and CHT's are all installed.  Vacuumed out the exhaust by removing the waste gate to get any chips out so they do not get into the turbo.  I didnt hear anything when doing this...  

I checked the EFIS to see what the sensors were reading, and they were all not reading anywhere near correct.  Asked Advanced, and there was a bug with UL engines and direct read from the EMS.  New software obtained that fixes it (AF5000VX161036B06-MV16.afz).  Installed today, and works like a charm.  All probes are reading 'ambient-ish'.

Plug wires... I have been dreading this.  Like really dreading.  Making them looks right, not be a dogs breakfast all over the place, and was super worried about the electrical connections, etc.

So far, initial impressions are UL has this figured out.  One end is crimped, and the other end (engine side) has like a screw terminal inside the plug wire housing.  You literally just thread it in.

I labeled everything... which ignition it is coming from, and what plug ig goes to.  On both ends.  Yes, this is overkill...  Forward plug is ignition 1, aft plug is ignition 2.  Finished one side (3 cylinders, both plugs) in an afternoon.

Another builder and I had toyed with using the cross bar of the intercooler to organize the plug wires with some 3D printed parts.  I decided to go cheap and fast and just use HD plastic.  Used the grommet from the engine kit that goes in the aft end of the baffle as a template.  Small piece of angle aluminum and an adel clamp, and its done.

Exhaust pipes back from the ceramic coating.

Need to secure the bottom of the exhaust.  Brackets on the exhaust already installed.  Used the RV 'trick' of a thick hose as the support brace, with some stainless tabs on the end.  Need to get the correct hardware.

Fit the cowl, spinner and prop.  Lines up pretty good.  Not quite perfect, but close.

I started torquing the prop... but then found out (thanks Paul) about Service Bulletins from Airmaster.  One applies to me... brushes on the pitch change motor.  Email sent to Airmaster... my serial number is on the list.  Need to determine if the whole things comes apart again or not.

Brake lines from the park brake out are complete.

Turned the engine over from the starter with 6 plugs out.  Turned over great!  But... no oil pressure reading.  Talked to Ray... I turned it over for about 20 seconds.  Needs more than that.  Adding to the to do list.

The engine ground wire location is beneath the starter on the right hand side of the engine.  Long wire, pain to fasten.  Found an M8 threaded hole on the left side of the engine... shorter run, easier to install.  Seems to work great.

All lines are secure.

Shortened and rerouted the engine ECU to throttle body line.

Last thing is to obtain more hose for the breather and install.

'Almost ready to fly' my ass.  This has been a lot of work, and a lot of custom work.  Between the cowl, bracketry, exhaust, electrical system changes, this beast has taken a very long time.

Now onto the rest...