Sean's Glasair Sportman Build: Windows

While the pilots side top deck window is trying (and the cowl), figured I would start on the next window.

What I learned from the first window:

Put in more silpruf. I believe there is enough in the first top deck window, but I didnt get the squeeze out I was expecting. But I did get squeeze out around the entire perimeter - just not as much as Zach in the videos.
Wet erase pens are truly disposable. When they get to fat, chuck em (or use the for something other than windows)
Review the instructions. I made some simple mistakes on the first one
Take your time with the taping. When doing a more than 90 degree corner, it really wants to lift.
Lock the window in place with wing nut clecos in the corners FIRST - not later.
Take your time with the trimming. I did OK on the first one. The angle grinder with the disk is so much faster.
The double tape line on the bottom of the window is critical for a nice aesthetic appearance. Make sure it is truly stuck down, and the overlaps are correct. I had one portion shift, and tried to retape tape #2. Its not horrible, but not perfect.
When you mark the tape line on the joggle, you get wet erase marker on the edge of the window. DON'T FORGET TO CLEAN IT OFF.
When 'smoothing' out the inside of the window, make DOUBLY sure that you cover the gap between tape #1 and #2 with silpruf. Also, when smoothing out between the window and the window frame make sure it is packed with silpruf.
Get more than qty 20 #40 wing nut clecos. If you are going to do multiple windows at once, you need more. 30 would be good. The pattern I have fallen into is do a window, and while it is curing move onto the next. Once I got to window #5 I could have a window trimmed and clecoed in less than and hour. Sanding and taping is probably a good 2 hours.
When removing the tape from the gap between the window and outer window frame, I started running a razor blade along the window edge to make sure that any silpruf that you didnt squeege out is cut away from the window. THEN, pull the tape from the door / fuselage TOWARDS THE window. In fact, on # 4 I pulled up all the outer tape around the entire permiter first, and then just did the last 1/4". There was virtually nothing left in the gap between the window and frame.
Take extra time when taping the inside of the fuselage / door, and make sure that the edge is sanded well and there is no paint residue on the edges. This will help the pen ride better, and gives you a better edge to tape / cut against.

Co-pilot side top deck window trimmed and corner clecos in place.

Working on starboard aft fuselage window. This one is curved, and much trickier to fit. I started off leaving the goop on top of the window, thinking it would protect it. Just makes it harder to see the joggle.

First window (pilot's side top deck) out of clecos and seems to be fine.

2nd top deck window bonded and drying

Finished.

First side window - aft fuselage rear window.

This one was a pain. I think it took about 8 or 9 passes to get this to fit in the goggle.

As our weather is getting cooler, going to do both of the rear windows in one shot when bonding as I have to keep the shop heated for a couple days.

Starboard aft window fit, taped, sanded, standoffs in and drying. Once the standoffs are trimmed, ready for the beautification layer.

All bonded in...

And with tape / clecos removed...

Its not bad... There are a couple areas where the silpruf is a bit thin. I maybe think I can maybe fix it (without making it worse), maybe. The lesson learned here... when the window goes in and you are 'smoothing' out the silpruf on the inside, pay attention to fill in the ~1/16th gap between where tape #1 was, and where tape #2 is. That is where I am thin. I did a much better job on this on the first door, because it was not mounted and I could see the gap (and I knew to look for it). Hopefully that one turns out much better.

First door window (rear window). This one fits fairly well out of the box.

The goop on the window would not come off easily this time... so opted to take it all off (which was far easier) and retape the center to keep down on potential scratches. There is still the goop on the edges of the window which should come off easily with a bit of sand paper or razor blade.

The trimming and drilling went really fast on this one as it fit into the joggle right away. 3 passes, and its good. Edges sanded, clecoed in.

1.5 windows ago, I switched from a random orbital sander to a angle grinder with a hook/loop pad. Way, way, way faster... but scarier as the material comes off way faster. Just need to go slow (but its still 4X faster than an air powered random orbital sander). Was looking for a hook and loop pad, and most of the ones I found were RPM limited. This one on Amazon canada is aluminum and is good for 9000 RPM. Using a Ryobi cordless angle grinder.

All taped and ready.

Same for the door, taped front and back. Standoffs are next.

Now the 2+ day wait to see how it turns out. It is very nice to be able to flip the door over to work on both sides with lots of light.

Detaped. Best one yet!

Onto the front door windows.

So after doing 4 already, the windows certainly go faster. Trimming to fit to clecoed in probably 30 to 45 min.

And I don't think I did something different, but on the aft fuselage window and aft door window, the drill / cleco punctured the inner skin / paint. That did not happen on the front door, which I am VERY thankful for. Less filling / repainting.

#6 ready for tape

I am all geared up to attempt to bond in both front windows one after the other. Everything is trimmed, fit, sanded, taped, cosmetic layer applied, etc. Just need to apply the silpruf, cleco it in, and do all the steps required beyond that. Will see if I am crazy or not. Its actually not as bad as it sounds as I have 4 or 5 hours between them based on the silpruf cosmetic layer application... but will still be the same day.

Well, got them done. Now to wait 2 or 3 days to see how good / bad they are.